If I only had one culinary pumpkin or winter squash to grow, Sweet Meat would be it.

For some varieties, beauty is only skin deep. Their color, size and weight may impress, but the flavor falls short. Sweet Meat not only has a creamy dense texture, but its flavor is rich, buttery and distinctive.

A friend gave me a seedling in 2009, and the vine produced three 10-15 pound squash. Based on its productivity and culinary gifts, I am hooked on this heirloom variety from Oregon.

In addition to taste, Sweet Meat blows away other squash varieties for its keeping ability. I know of no other winter squash or pumpkin that stores as well — for me that’s been about six months. It may keep longer, but usually in that time I’ve consumed them all.

In contrast, while my Galeux d’Eysines,  Musquee de Provence, Long Island Cheese and Winter Luxury Pie pumpkins all tasted exceptional, they only lasted about two to three months in the cold pantry.

If for ​nothing else, plant a couple seeds in the late spring and spend the next few months perfecting your baking skills; Sweet Meat makes a fine pumpkin pie.

— Tom Conway, Tall Clover Farm